PRE-FALL 2016 Delpozo

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Delpozo

How do you do Delpozo for the day? In response to customer demand, the Spanish house is adding both Pre-Fall and Resort to its lineup—and creative director Josep Font has gamely set about streamlining his specific brand of pret-a-couture fantasia to its most wearable essence.

Naturally (and happily), Delpozo could never be wholly quotidian; too great are Font’s taste and skill for intricate and sculptural patterns, for kaleidoscopic beading and fanciful touches. But as it turns out, that confectionery precision translates into some lovely daywear. Spurred by the work of Mexican architect Luis Barragán and Japanese lensman Nobuyoshi Araki, the designer turned out a palette of super-saturated hues, brilliant turquoise Lurex, and spongy tomato-red stretch crepes. Vivid separates found a foil in crisp poplin shirting adorned with matching, almost paperlike white flower brooches that recalled Araki’s famous botanical photos. Knitwear also proved a strong, shoppable category, from woven cable-knit sweaters to capelets, both sporting heaps of looped fringe. Of course, Font’s eye for the finest finishings was as present as in Delpozo runway outings. Crisp tulle inserts lent structure at the hip of a crepe mini, while a spare top in blush organdy came with an exquisite, densely embellished removable bib that could take it easily from day to night.

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